You want to have an enjoyable walk with your dog, while Sparky has other ideas. Your dog may lunge, growl, snarl, and bark or try to pull in the opposite direction. You are aware of the looks from people as they cross the street to avoid Sparky. You are told your dog is dominant or defiant. You are told to get better control. You are told you dog needs more exposure to things. Let’s face it, life with a reactive dog is stressful and embarrassing. Having lived with reactive dogs, I personally understand what my clients go through.
Reactivity is not dominance or defiance. Reactivity is often rooted in some level of emotional distress or conflict. The dog wants to increase the distance from a stressful situation. Increasing distance decreases the threat level to the dog. Alternatively, he lacks impulse control. The dog wants to get to something and becomes frustrated. When dogs are behaving in ways we call reactive, they are stressed. Stress affects the work we do. Reactivity may become aggression if we are not careful. The worst we can do is add to our dog’s stress through punishing the behaviors or forcing the dog into situations before he is ready.
When working with a reactive dog, I recommend a decompression period. If the home has a yard, I have all walks stopped as we work to help the dog become more relaxed. However, sometimes stopping walks is not possible. If you live in an apartment, condo, or townhome without a yard, your dog must be walked. As we progress with relaxation and behavior modification, we can begin careful reintroduction into the environment. Walking a reactive dog requires planning.
Make a list of things that set your dog off. Early on, I work to avoid triggers until the dog is ready for careful exposure to things. Choose places where it is easy to increase distance as needed before your dog is set off. I like areas with open lines of sight to reduce the risk of a surprise encounter with something. Look for things you can use to block visuals to help keep your dog calmer: buildings, port-a-potties, dumpsters, parked cars, large boulders, dense bushes, walls, etc. Look at various parks in your region. Yes, this may mean driving to get your dog out for a walk. I had one client with a highly reactive dog. They lived in an apartment complex. Their community backed up to a commuter rail parking lot. Behind their building was a staircase to the far back of the lot. Around the area were open places with lots of grass and the ability to move away from people or other dogs. It was easy to determine and avoid busy times so the dog could relax. Another client lived near a large church and an elementary school. They used the perimeter of the church and school for walking their reactive dog.
Avoid places like trails with limited lines of sight. It is not fun to come around a bend in a path and come face to face with something that will spook your dog. Boardwalks do not allow for the ability to move away. The more open the area, the better for you and your dog. Remember, increasing distance helps increase safety and decrease your dog’s stress.
Your reactive dog is not trying to give you a hard time. Your dog is having a hard time and needs your help. There is no magic wand or pill that will fix your reactive dog. It takes time, patience, and careful planning for things like walks. The safer your dog feels, the more you can relax and hopefully, you will eventually be able to enjoy your walks.
West Wind Dog Training 
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