Surviving Adolescence

When I worked in a shelter, the average dog given up was often an adolescent. Adolescence is a time of hormone surges, growth, testing, increased activity, trying to navigate life as they mature physically and mentally.

It is often recommended to spay or neuter young as it will stop undesired behaviors. This is false. There are many factors that play into behaviors from genetics to the work we do.  Studies indicate it is better to alter after a dog has hit full maturity.  So, “fixing” your pup at six months of age will not fix adolescence.  As I write this, I have an adolescent hooligan of my own. Lilith is seven months old and wow! She is a HANDFUL.

Lilith – as an adolescent.

Surviving adolescence begins with the pup, months before adolescence.

Are you doing your homework and getting a good fit for your lifestyle? Consider the source of the pup and the work done before you bring the pup home. The less work at the source, the greater your disadvantage may be. Now what are you doing once the pup is home? Breed or type, genetics, and maternal care during pregnancy, early socializing at the breeder or rescue, the work you do all go into how the puppy will develop.  Hopefully, things were done well and you have a puppy you adore. Suddenly, at about six months of age, that darling puppy became a Tasmanian Devil crossed with a shark on caffeine with a tad of honey badger tossed in.  What happened? Adolescence.  

Adolescence starts when a pup is about five to six months old and lasts until about two years of age.

Here are some tips to help you survive this life phase.

Have patience: Understand this is a time of change. Dogs are not trying to dominate us.  They are trying to figure out how to live with us.

Keep teaching: Refresh lessons. Teach self-control. Games are a great tool for this.

Remember social graces: It is important during this time that you keep teaching good manners.

Management: Your pup may begin doing things like counter surfing, stealing things, etc.  He is not being bad.  There are often good things up there and he is curious.  If he finds something great, this behavior has been reinforced. Put things away. 

Respect his changes: Though your puppy seemed to get along with others of his species, this can change as he matures. We cannot make our dogs want to be best buds with all other dogs.

Fear phase: During this time, (around 8 – 12 months of age) dogs may go through what is often termed an “adolescent fear phase.” Go back to CAREFUL work to help him through. 

Physical needs: Your puppy may be napping less and needing more activity as he enters adolescence. You must adjust to his needs.

Mental needs: Boredom leads to undesired behaviors.  Sniff walks, food releasing toys, games, trick training, etc., will help.  Dogs need a combination of active and quiet activities.

Teach relaxation: Just as important as physical and mental activity are, learning to relax and hang out is also a needed skill.  Sadly, many dogs are not getting this lesson.

Safety: That cute pup who followed you all over the place may now be less inclined to do so.  Leashes, baby gates, closed doors will all help keep him safer as you work to develop good manners.

Seek assistance: It never hurts to contact a good, positively based trainer to help you through this time.

Adolescence is temporary.  It can be worked through.  The key is: be reasonable, be willing to make needed changes, be understanding, and of course, make sure the puppy you acquire is a good fit for your life.

Taking the Frustration Out of Housetraining

(Another series for the paper expanded upon for here)

Housetraining does not have to be complex or that difficult. Any dog can be housetrained, you have to be willing to to do the work.

If you choose to teach your dog to use pee pads or a sod box, the same information can be applied. However, be aware some dogs may not learn to potty outside as quickly. You may have to bring the pee pads or sod box with you if you travel.

HOUSETRAINING STARTS WITH COMMUNICATION

Photo by Megan Markham on Pexels.com

House training concerns are a common complaint. House training does not need to be difficult. There is no reason why the average, healthy dog cannot learn what people consider appropriate elimination manners. However, house training takes time, patience, and inter-species communication. Once you understand how to set up for house training success, things become easier. House training begins with communication. At its most basic level, house training is a series of signals and responses between dog and human.

Dogs are not born knowing human languages nor are we born knowing theirs. Dogs and humans need to learn how to communicate with each other.  This means humans must observe what their dogs are doing.  Observation increases the chance of catching signals indicating Sparky needs to potty. Playing on your phone, taking a nap, watching TV, letting a dog roam inside where you cannot see her, etc., is not being observant. Missing signals leads to dogs eliminating in places we do not want. It is not their fault, they are dogs. They need to go, they will go. What are a few signs that may occur before your dog eliminates? Behaviors may include circling, sniffing, acting anxious, pausing in their activity, walking towards the door, becoming more distracted when working, etc. Each dog is an individual and will be different in their pre-potty behavior. Some dogs may begin to signal well in advance of relieving themselves.  Other dogs may give a couple quick sniffs and go.

When I see any indication my dog may need to potty, I acknowledge the behavior.  I ask: “Do you need to go out?”  I take my dog to the potty spot and give a few minutes to eliminate.  I cue my dog to eliminate. If there is success, we get to play.  If there is no elimination, we go inside and I observe my dog CAREFULLY. Next possible indication, I repeat the process. My dog and I are learning to communicate. We are learning signals and responses.

Dogs may vary widely in how they learn to signal. One of my dogs would look in the direction of the route to get to the backyard. If I missed this very subtle signal, she would relieve herself inside. This meant I had to be increasingly observant. I eventually got her to move up to me to signal instead of standing at the top of the stairs. Her signaling was still a very subtle stand and stare.  However, she stood closely and when she got the response, she would walk to where she would be let outside. Another dog approaches and “tap dances.”  When asked if she needs to go out, she will bark and race to the stairs. Our youngest dog at this point will race up, slam into us, bounce back, repeat until she hears the response. Now comes the reinforcement for what is needed.  First part is the dog gets to relieve himself and is more comfortable.  Second is my response to my dog doing what I need.

A behavior that is reinforced as it is happening is a behavior that is more likely to happen again.  However, I do not want to distract my dog as he is going.  Be careful! As I see my dog completing his duty, I begin to reinforce. My dog will get to play with me, run around, we take a walk, I may toss a treat or toy. 

THINGS THAT UNDERMINE HOUSETRAINING

Unrealistic expectations: People assume dogs will house train within a couple of days. There are many resources promising a house trained dog in a week. Puppies need to potty frequently. When moved to a new environment, many dogs regress in house training.  A dog knowing how to signal at a foster home may regress in the adoptive home. When we expect perfect house training in a few days, we set up for failure.

Too much freedom early on: It is not uncommon for people to give full house freedoms the moment a dog signals to go out. The problem is one correct signal does not mean the dog knows how to keep signaling. He is still figuring it out. When your dog signals in a different part of the house and you do not see it, now what? Your dog gets no response so he potties. As he learns what signals get a human response, your dog needs to learn how to find you when he cannot see you immediately.

Expecting a crate to house train: It is a myth that dogs will not soil where they sleep or eat.  They will if they are forced to eliminate in a crate. Crates are not magic house training tools.  Crates slow house training if improperly used. Expecting a dog to stay crated and not potty for 10 – 12 hours a day is wrong.  If dogs do not get house time with us, they will not learn what we want.

Punishing: Your dog is trying to meet a physical need so he begins to relieve himself.  You catch him and begin to yell. Your dog learns relieving himself in front of you is a bad thing.  He may associate the feeling of having to potty with a frightening response from you. Will your dog want to signal you in the future? If your dog learns pottying in front of you is bad, how can you expect him to give this behavior when he is outside with you? Side note, that look of guilt you claim your dog is giving is not guilt, it is appeasement. Guilt is a topic for another column.

Not teaching what you want: Many people use pee pads or newspapers to teach their puppies where to relieve themselves.  Now they suddenly want the dog to potty outside – only.  However, the dog has been taught to go inside and on a certain surface.  Now the rules have changed. You can teach a dog to use both pee pads and to potty outside. However, it also takes time.

Not exposing to different surfaces:  Getting used to eliminating on different surfaces is important. If a dog only relieves himself on grass, he may be reluctant to potty on gravel or concrete. Depending on where we go for dog events, my dogs have had to relieve themselves on grass, concrete, gravel, sand, mulch, and even wood shavings at an exercise pen at an indoor dog event.

HANDLING REGRESSIONS

First step is ruling out medical causes. Urinary tract infections, kidney problems, bladder stones, cancer, endocrine disorders, parasites, joint issues making it painful for a dog to get outside, cognitive impairments, are just a few things that can cause house training regressions. As I am ruling out medical issues, I look at training and environment.

Is the dog as well house trained as you thought? Were you setting your dog up for success or were you expecting too much too fast? Were you looking for signals and responding? Get back to house training basics. Observe, learn to communicate, keep your dog with you as you move through the house.  Give him a chance to learn to signal you in different rooms. Then give gradual freedoms again.

Housetraining may regress when there are life changes. This could be a move, a new pet or child added, being adopted into a new home, divorce, visiting some place, increased stress, etc. Many people adopt dogs who are reportedly housetrained. They become upset when the dog has accidents. The dog needs to learn to signal you in the new home. Same with a move or staying in a hotel. New environment means the dog needs to learn how to signal in that place.

Is your dog scent marking? Scent marking is canine communication. Contrary to popular belief, neutering may not stop this.  I have known many neutered males and some spayed females who scent mark. Handle this like inappropriate urination and teach your dog to mark outside.

Are you expecting your dog to hold too long? It is unreasonable to ask a dog to hold for 8 – 10 hours a day while you work.  Puppies and smaller dogs may not be able to hold for more than a few hours.  Senior dogs may have to go more often. Consider hiring someone to give your dog a midday break. Create a long-term confinement area with a potty spot where you can teach your dog to go relieve himself when you are not home.

Is the dog urinating due to excitement or stress? Reducing stress, keeping things calm, building up confidence, reducing confusion and teaching calmness can help. Punishing and yelling will make things worse. Working with a positive trainer who understands this type of situation is a good idea.

Have you taught your dog relieving himself in front of you is a bad thing? This can happen when you punish your dog when you catch him inappropriately pottying.  Setting up for success, observation, and learning communication are what increases house training success.

Are you stressing your dog when you need him to go? Hovering around him, fussing to get him to potty faster can cause a dog to wait until you are not around to relieve himself.  It is possible to stress a dog so much he refuses to potty outside.

Are you expecting your dog to relieve himself on a surface he is not used to being on? For example, a dog used to only going on grass may balk at going on concrete.

Are you cleaning up well? If an area smells like a potty spot to dogs, that is where they may keep going.

House training is a process.  Be patient, observing, and understanding. Remember, these are dogs trying to learn how to survive with our species.  And… we can be a confusing species!

Help Your Groomer

(Another piece for the paper I expanded for my blog)

Groomers have a tough job. It is hot, messy, they are on their feet for hours at a stretch. Stressed critters struggle, bite, scratch, anal sacs may blow in a smelly mess, groomers get urinated and defecated on. Then there are the humans: unreasonable expectations, arguing when a groomer needs to muzzle a pet, becoming irate when it is in the best interest of the pet to be shaved, bad reviews, threats of lawsuits. Many people I know are professional groomers. They are burned out, losing money, tired, sore, verbally abused.

I am seeing an increase in pictures of dogs and how they were brought into groomers. Most are “doodles.” A doodle is any breed of dog crossed with poodle. The dogs’ fur is matted to the skin.  The groomers took scissors and cut a line down the back of the dog.  Then using clippers, the fur was removed in a felted mess. Then the social media bashing begins.  “Why did you have to shave the dog?” “Don’t you know it’s bad to shave dogs?” “I would never use you as a groomer!”

If you look at the picture below, you will see how the fur on top looks almost decent but at the skin, it is completely felted. Fur that is matted increases the chance of skin infections. It easier to miss parasites in matted fur. It affects how you pet can regulate his body temperature as there is no air flow to the skin. Mats trap dirt, debris, and do not dry well. Mats are simply uncomfortable.

Picture of matted doodle found on line – will credit when original source is found.

Recently a groomer shared how much income she loses grooming dogs because so many are brought in heavily matted. In the time it takes her to groom one heavily matted dog, she could have fully groomed 4 dogs who are not matted disasters. She charges by the dog as do many groomers. Then clients refuse to pay full price because the dog was shaved.  Mats are PAINFUL to be worked out. The more pain dogs endure, the harder grooming becomes. Shaving may be the most humane option at that point.  Shaving allows the coat to grow out while the human learns how to prevent the dog from becoming a tangled mess. What can you do to prevent your dog from becoming a groomer’s nightmare?

First is you need to decide if you are going to be able to do the maintenance grooming in between professional sessions. If not, then discuss with your groomer how often your dog should be professionally done based on how you want your dog to look. If you cannot afford to bring your dog in as often as needed, then you MUST be willing to do your own grooming between visits.  The type of coat your dog has and the time of year determine how often you will need to groom. Coats that shed will need an increase in grooming during the shed seasons.  Coats that are lower shed may need more brushing on a regular basis.  Your groomer can help you determine what needs to be done for maintenance.

What should you have for tools?  Again, this will depend on the type of coat.  For my Shetland Sheepdogs, I use a pin brush with long pins, a wide toothed comb, narrower toothed comb, shedding rakes, and a slicker brush. Then scissors so we can trim out long hair from between the toes. Our Standard Schnauzers we use stripping knives to help remove loose hair, a slicker and pin brush, comb, and scissors. Then a Dremel or nail clippers to do toenails.

Finally, learn how to teach your dog to enjoy grooming and wear a muzzle.  A dog who hates being groomed and struggles is a risk for the groomer.  It is also possible for the dog to be injured.  A good trainer can help you.

My daughter Sarah grooming Molly.

Groomers have a tough job. As a pet person, you owe it to them to make it easier. 

P.S. This also goes for your long haired cats!

Detective Work

Again, this is another piece from the newspaper, expanded for here.

A big part of helping owners with their canine concerns is doing detective work. Listening, observing, taking notes, looking for the obvious and not so obvious are all things that allow me to help owners uncover possible causes for why dogs are doing what they are.  Let’s look at three cases (details changed for privacy).

Here is the information I was given at the initial contact:

1) Sophie was refusing to walk on leash.  The behavior started within the past few weeks and was worsening. Previous training was positive reinforcement. There had been no incidents her owner could remember that could trigger the behavior. Medical had been ruled out.

2) Spike’s owner called me at the recommendation of another trainer. Spike was doing great with coming when called in class as well as during formal training sessions in and out of the house.  However, outside formal training sessions, Spike was ignoring the cue.

3) Bingo, a mid-adolescent dog, had begun attacking the older dog in the house. Bingo was given plenty of enrichment things, so the older dog was not the sole focus for playing.  Bingo was neutered.  The older dog was neutered.  As Bingo hit adolescence, his attitude was changing towards the other dog.  His owners wanted help before things escalated.

Stop reading, go get a snack and a cup of something.  Sit and ponder the three cases and see if you can come up with possible reasons for the concerns.  (Insert Syncopated Clock – aka Jeopardy music here – and time is up). Let’s go over each case and see how you did.

1) This case was straightforward once I saw one thing many owners would not consider a problem. Sophie’s owner had attached a poop bag holder to the leash.  As they walked, the holder swung in front of Sophie’s face.  This was unpleasant for the dog.  Once removed, Sophie began enjoying walks again.

2) Spike’s trainer was one well known to me and someone I refer to for group classes, sports training, and play groups. I asked his owner how Spike was trained to come when called.  The trainer taught what I call a “competition recall.” Competition recalls start with the dog at a sit.  He is told to stay. The handler walks away, turns and calls the dog.  This way of training a recall gives a set of behaviors that need to happen before the dog comes to you. Spike could not figure out what to do when most of the sequence was absent.

3) Bingo was perplexing at first. The history indicated things were great until they were not. During the evaluation, Bingo signaled to go outside.  Before opening the door, one of his humans put a shock collar on him.  Since the collar was not out when I got there, I had no idea they were using one.  It was information left out. I asked why it was used.  Bingo only wore the shock collar when outside with the older dog. If the owners felt he was getting too rough in play with the other dog, Bingo got zapped. The reason for the behaviors was very clear.  Bingo was associating the older dog with pain and was working to keep him away so there would be no pain.

So, how did you do? A lot of dog work is detective work.  The more information we have through what you tell us and what we observe, the better for us. 

Why Good Training Makes for Bad TV

pixels

TV animal (mostly dog) training shows are popular. Every time a new TV training show comes out, I see an increase in issues.  When a human tells me about how they followed Mr./Ms. TV Trainer and have no idea what went wrong, I explain the issues when people rely on TV dog training (or any animal training).  Here are some of them.

First, many of these trainers use outdated methods and show little knowledge of LIMA (least intrusive minimally aversive), the Canine Ladder of Communication (aka the Canine Ladder of Aggression), or the Humane Hierarchy of Behavior Change. The TV trainers show a lack of understanding of the science behind training and dog behavior. Other things I have seen (with dog work) include using prong collars to teach dogs to come when called; hanging dogs by the collar; assuming dogs need pack leaders; discussions about mystical energies; threatening and intimidating dogs; etc. No dog need shocks, prongs, or other aversive tools or methods in order to learn. If I can teach a 130 pound Cane Corso without these methods, so can you. I was trained in the 1980’s and early 1990’s in these methods. Many of us trainers crossed over as more came out about learning. No matter what the species, you do not need intimidation or pain to learn. Dogs are not out to take over the world. They are not giving us a hard time. They are simply trying to learn to live with us. Many of the behaviors we do not like come from confusion, needs not being met, the dogs having a hard time and not able to work through it.

Even the rare show with a very competent trainer or behaviorist, shows are edited for time. This gives the illusion things can be fixed fast. The reality is it may take weeks or months of serious work to begin to see improvement. I worked with one dog from a rough beginning. It took the better part of a year for the dog to begin to behave like what people want in a dog. Even now, he is still exhibiting behaviors most people would not want. Some situations may never resolve to the level the humans wish. Even with the couple TV trainers (one was a vet behaviorist) with great information, there was still the impression of fast fixes.  People tend to want immediate gratification and that often will not happen with animal work.

Now there are things that may not be said or have been edited out that are important to hear. How often do you hear “life-style change” or “life of the pet” stated in instructions? Do you see the trainer explaining how extensive management could be depending on the situation? Do you hear discussions about medication or referring to vet behaviorists? Do they air the cases where there is no resolution? What about financial costs such as shoring up a fence line to keep a dog contained?

Rarely do these shows address the fact that behavioral concerns may have a medical cause. I remember one show back over a decade ago where a good trainer discussed medical issues with a client. And yes, the dog had something exacerbating the behaviors see. One of my past dogs became less tolerant of things and was urinating in the house. While addressing the behaviors, I reached out to my vet.  Come to find out my dog had bladder cancer. I have worked with various dogs with underlying medical issues that were causing concerning behaviors. It is not uncommon for animals who are feeling off or in pain to exhibit behavioral changes.

Then there is no observation of the situation or your work to give vital feedback. The past year now, Covid-19 has affected animal training. However, even with adding virtual work, trainers are still able to observe through the camera.  We may not be hands-on but we can observe and advise. Even when there were a couple good TV trainers with shows, I still saw people making mistakes when they showed me what they had learned. The ability to give and receive feedback is important.

Why does good training make for bad TV? Good animal work is slow, methodical, it can be VERY boring. Who wants to watch a trainer sitting quietly, tossing treats while trying gain the trust of a dog? Who wants to watch a trainer with the dog and human standing yards away from something while slowly working? Viewers want action. They want flash and eye candy. They want immediate gratification. They want TV magic.

Finally, do you see failures? Rarely if ever. Instead you often hear “No dog I cannot fix” or similar phrases. Well there are dogs that cannot be fixed. That is the sad fact. There are dogs that are simply too dangerous to safely, sanely, humanely exists on this planet with any quality of life for them. There are dogs that are sometimes hardwired for behaviors that are not suited for life with humans. Genetics is the ground and if that ground is not stable, no matter how good the building from there is, the stability will be limited. Look at the Leaning Tower of Pisa and how much work was done to keep it from toppling. The reason? The ground was not stable.

Turn off the TV trainers and seek one on one help from a positively based person.  Your pet and you will be better for it.

“No, David!” Confusion Does Not Teach.

I was covering a second-grade class. The teacher asked me to read No, David! by David Shannon. Throughout the book, David, a young child, makes bad choices. One student yelled out “David needs a spanking!”  I immediately recognized a teachable moment. I asked questions about David’s behavior. The class erupted in chatter. The answers all revolved around how David was being bad.  I calmed the class and asked another question. “What is David’s mother doing?”  The students all said she was telling David “No!”  Now, I wanted to get the students to think.

“When David’s mother was saying ‘No, David!’ was David learning better behaviors?” The answers were all “No, because he keeps doing bad things.”  I asked the students did his mother tell David what he could do?  I saw a few students begin to think.  I continued along this line. “How could David know what a good behavior was if he was not told and shown what good behaviors were?” The entire class grew quiet. A few piped up: “David did not know.” Then the boy who started this lesson on confusion commented, “Just like when we are told to make a better choice but no one tells us what a better choice is!”  How does this apply to our pets?

My client had a difficult time understanding how confusion brings about undesired behaviors. The woman was not teaching, she was not proactive. Instead, she was reactive, just like David’s mother. I took her into the kitchen and directed her to get me something. It was hot so she got me water.  No. Then she added ice.  No.  Maybe I was hungry so she went to the refrigerator. No. She went to the cupboard where they keep snacks. No. I kept this up for several more minutes. I asked how she was feeling. Frustrated and confused. Now, I changed tactics and gave her a clear direction: “Please go to the kitchen island and get me the red candle Yankee Candle next to the pile of mail.” My client followed it perfectly. I asked how she felt now. She answered much better because she knew what I needed. Then she got that “Ah HA!” moment. She realized how confusing she was being for her dog.

I evaluated a dog who was described as manic. His greetings were horrid.  He jumped, body slammed and grabbed people. He was always pacing and panting. A previous trainer said ignore the dog until the dog gave a better behavior. Another trainer said the dog was “over trained” because the dog was trying too many things to get attention. Then they were told to send the dog to his boot camp manners program, which they did.  The dog came back worse. The advice from both trainers was not proactive. The boot camp trainer used painful methods (shock collars and punishment) to whip the dog into shape. Now the dog was even more anxious. The dog was panicking trying to figure out what to do. Just like David, how was this dog supposed to know what he COULD do when no one proactively taught what was a desired behavior? The dog was not bad. He was confused. I showed the people what to do in a humane way. As we gave clarity to the dog, his behaviors improved.

Please, go read or listen to “No, David!”  You can find the story online. Think about how you interact people, children, and pets. Are you clear or confusing? What actions from us will bring about better responses from them?

Karen Peak is the owner of West Wind Dog Training in Northern, Virginia.

The Faces of Fear – and what to do

Fear is an emotional and physical response to a threat. It is important to learn the signs of fear based on the species of pet you have. Dog owners may be familiar with trembling, ears pinned back, tail tucked, and the dog cowering. However, what about other signals? Behaviors called “dominant” may be manifestations of fear including lip lifting, growling, lunging, snapping, barking.

Photo by Burst on Pexels.com

Many factors play into temperament and behaviors, including fear. Genetics, maternal stress, and nutrition while pregnant can affect a developing fetus. From here is the work done before the pet is placed in a home.  Next is the quality of work you do after acquiring a pet.  Simplistically: Nature gives is what we have, and we Nurture it along.  What happens during a fear response?

When a stressor is present, chemicals are released which prepare the body to react. There will be physical changes such as pupils dilating, rapid breathing, increased heart rate, hyper vigilance (think cheerleader in a slasher film), etc. From here, the animal will either fight his way out of a situation, flee it (flight), or freeze (become very still). As the threat passes, more chemicals are released to help the organism recover. This takes longer to happen than the fear response. Too much fear and stress can eventually alter body chemistry. Animals can feel anxious.  Anxiety is the worry of future danger based on previous experiences. How should we handle fear?

No matter how silly the fear seems to us; it is real to the fearful. Fear drives behaviors. Fear is a survival mechanism.

Punishing fear does nothing to help. For example, punishing a growling dog may stop the communication, yet the emotions are still there.  I must not stop communication. Now what happens? The dog gives me less and less warning. The dog may become more apprehensive of me. The dog loses trust in me. How can I work with a fearful dog if I am making the fear worse? So what SHOULD we do?

Provide comfort and security. You will not reinforce fear. Your pet needs you to respond in a manner that will help the best. If the critter is fearful of you, give him space. If the dog is showing signs he is not comfortable with me, I will back off. Standing my ground or showing the dog he is wrong or trying to physically comfort the dog may increase the chance of a bite. I need to give the dog SPACE. If the critter is fearful of something else, get him away from it and help him feel safe. Forcing the fearful to suck it up and deal with it can make things worse.

Be proactive. This may mean different things.  Avoiding situations while you slowly work your pet up to handling them. Managing the environment to reduce the chance of an incident. Advocating for your pet when it comes to other people and animals.  

Avoid ANY trainer who insists you need to punish the dog, use shock or prong collars, etc. You will not help the fear. It is possible to make things so bad the dog becomes increasingly dangerous to live with. Then what happens?

Learn to work with your pet to help her handle more of life.  Counter Conditioning and Desensitizing protocols can be effective if done carefully. Medication is a tool that should be considered along with a good behavior modification program.

Fear is real.  It is complex. Signs of fear may be misinterpreted. Fear is something we need to learn to recognize and work with in meaningful ways.  A good, positively based trainer who understands the science behind learning or a veterinary behaviorist should be contacted. The more you understand what fear is and how to work with it, the better off you and your critter will be.

From the Ground Up – it’s not all how we raise them

Over the summer during Covid-19, I have gone to multiple (carefully managed) dog events in Tennessee, Indiana, Michigan, and North Carolina.  There were various skittish puppies and adolescent dogs at each event. The excuses made by the handlers were “This is a Covid Puppy.”  We have a Covid puppy too.  Why is she not a nervous mess? Why is she what I would expect for a puppy of her age?

Lilith was born June 10.  I know the challenges posed to socializing during these times. Earlier in the pandemic I covered socializing and social distancing in this blog and my newspaper column. Did these puppies get what was needed early on? Or is there something else to consider? Temperament begins at the molecular level, long before the puppy is born. It begins with the dogs we are allowing (intentionally or unintentionally) to breed. It starts with genetics. Think about building a home or a skyscraper or any building. There are many similarities. With all good construction we start with the ground.

Genetics would be the ground. Would you knowingly build where sinkholes are a problem?  Sinkholes occur when the type of rocks, such as limestone, are easily dissolved by groundwater. Would you knowingly build upon an unstable bluff? Not if you could avoid it. Why do you think the Leaning Tower of Pisa leans? The ground. Stunning architecture but the ground was not sound. Understanding the importance of good temperaments in dogs being allowed to breed is important. Breeding dogs with behavioral concerns (intentionally or accidentally) is like building on unstable ground.  The house may be pretty but is it going to be as stable as we would like? Maybe not.

For decades we have been taught behavior is all in how the dog is raised. Heck even I taught for years that puppies were blank slates. However, science has proven this false. Some of my favorite videos are of young puppies showing their inherited traits. One video is young English Setters already pointing.  There is no training yet.  It is genetics.

There are other influences such as maternal nutrition and stress. If the dam’s stress hormones are high during pregnancy, the offspring can be born with higher stress hormones. (Impact of Maternal Prenatal Stress on Growth of the Offspring, Aging Dis. 2014 Feb; 5(1): 1–16). Think of this as the way the ground is prepared after a building site is chosen.

The foundation would be the first 8 weeks or so with whomever has the litter in their care. We can build a great foundation or we can kludge one together and hope it holds. This includes how long the puppies stay with the mother and littermates and the early exposures done. If the person caring for the litter is not doing the work during these weeks, it is analogous to a poorly prepared foundation. 

Next is building the framework.  This is where the person acquiring the puppy takes over. The optimal window for socializing closes at about 16 weeks of age.  Some puppies are sooner, some are later. If the framework is not carefully built, there will be a greater chance of problems into adolescence and adulthood.

From here, for the life of our dog, we keep adding on to what was started.  Think of the Winchester House.  Throughout her life, Sarah Winchester kept adding on to the eight-room house she bought in California. At her death, Winchester house had about 160 rooms.  We are always building and working with our dog’s behaviors throughout their lives.

What is the takeaway? The behaviors we see are a combination of genetics and environment. Even pet owners should have some rudimentary understanding of breed traits (even if looking for a crossbred dog). Then understanding the steps needed in building a good canine companion is crucial. The sad thing is many people do not do the research or put in the time with many things in life. Do not let this be you with your dog.

The Fallout of Punishment

From pet owners, dog sport enthusiasts, people who have working dogs, to many trainers, groomers, and veterinarians, punishment-based teaching is still common.  But do you understand the fallout these methods can have?  Here is one such case.  All names have been changed for privacy.

As a pup, Maggie was the first to race outside ahead of the other dogs. Once out the door, she would pounce on the other dogs as they exited. Maggie was trying to play. The humans she lived with yelled at her to stop.   Maggie stopped targeting the other dogs for a few days. Then the behaviors returned.

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A vet told them to spray the pup with a squirt bottle. Other trainers and dog people they knew chimed in with comments like “You need to really let her know she is wrong.” The pup was labelled dominant, defiant, self-willed, trouble, a handful. The levels of punishment increased.

Once again, the tackling the other dogs stopped for a little bit.  However, other behaviors were cropping up: behaviors related to anxiety. Maggie was becoming a manic barker, she was skittish, she would spin and bark at other things, not just the dogs.

She had issues being groomed.  Part of grooming was being misted with water before her people brushed her. Why? Think: she was being sprayed with water to stop her assaults, she was also misted with water at grooming time.  Spray bottles had a very negative association. Then, the targeting of the other dogs came back – but worse.  Now she was going after them if they barked at other things or were called for anything. Maggie would begin targeting them as the other dogs let the people know they needed to go out.  Why?

Dogs are very good at putting together patters or chains of behaviors.  Maggie learned the steps leading up to the scary things happening.  She was now focusing on the first step: dogs indicating to humans they needed to go out.

Maggie was now a young adult. She was stressed around the dogs.  She was stressed around the back door. She was stressed.  Finally, I was asked to help.

I spent several days working with the couple.  First I taught management to prevent the behaviors from occurring. Every time Maggie was in a position to be stressed or “rehearse” (exhibit) the undesired behavior, work would be undone. There are only so many times we can get things back on track. It is important during work that we manage the environment. For Maggie I suggested gates and leashes and a change in routine.

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Then I addressed how to change Maggie’s emotional response to triggers for her behaviors.  Counter Conditioning and Desensitizing lessons were taught. Next, I taught desired behaviors that were incompatible with when Maggie was doing. Finally, I addressed the other aspects in the lives of all the dogs that added to the other undesired behaviors.  However, as many will, her owners returned to their old ways. Maggie’s behaviors returned. Eventually it was determined that Maggie would be better off in a different home.

I am what is called a crossover trainer.  Back when I started out, dog training was physically punitive, scary, and even painful for the dog.  I saw a lot of fallout as I grew in my skills. Sadly, as many of us learned the science behind training, many people stay in the dark ages.  Dogs are not out to dominate us.  They are trying to learn to survive with us.  Maggie was doing what she needed to do to stop what scared her.  She was not trying to show the other dogs she was alpha or anything. Maggie was reacting to her environment.

Here is one fallout of punishment: the dog associating something else with the bad thing happening.  Punishment may for the short term stop an undesired behavior but it does not really teach. At no time was Maggie ever taught better behaviors. She was only scolded. Maggie had no idea what she was doing was wrong. All she was doing was playing.

I knew Maggie when she was a pup, but her people sought other advice and they were older school trainers like those they knew from early on – when I was much younger. Back then training was all about stopping and correcting, less about teaching in a way that is meaningful. Maggie was never taught “yes” or good behaviors. All she got was punished.  She was confused, she associated the other dogs with scary stuff.  Maggie was working to stop the scaries. Simple as that.

I have seen the same happen when electric shock fences, prong collars, shock collars, correction-based and “balanced” training are used. Training is not stopping undesired behaviors.  It is humanely, and in a way not confusing or painful/scary to the dog, teaching desired behaviors from the start. Back to Maggie.

In her new home, Maggie was taught alternative behaviors. Her stress was addressed. There was management. Will she be perfect?  No.  No dog is perfect. However, Maggie is a different dog.  Additionally, Maggie has lived with other dogs, cats, and various species over the years.

Her previous owners were not bad either.  They did love her and loved her enough to realize she was not happy where she was. However, they were not evolving.  They were older and set in their ways.  They had a hard time changing what was decades of their habits with teaching dogs. Additionally, people they trusted gave behaviorally bad advice.

Here is the takeaway: you can train a dog without older school techniques IF you are willing to learn and make the changes. No breed or type needs punitive methods. If I can work with a 140 pound, leash reactive Mastiff type dog without punitive means, you can teach your 20 pound terrier the same.  We can raise well-mannered dogs without fear and force.

• Karen Peak – West Wind Dog Training

Just Peeing in the Rain

As I originally covered this topic for the local paper, we were in the midst of a rainy spell.  Right now we are facing days of more rain.  Luckily this will be on and off. As I was putting my dogs out to get them to potty, I began singing “Just peeing in the rain!” Then I started thinking, it really is important that dogs learn to potty in the rain.

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If a dog is not comfortable being out in the rain, it can be harder to teach him to potty in the rain.  If a dog does not want to relieve himself when it is raining, what is his other option?  If you do not want your dog relieving himself inside when the weather outside is bad, then what do you need to do? You have probably guessed it!

First let’s look at how we often make rain not such a good thing.

It is annoying enough for people who have a securely fenced yard to have to deal with wet dogs.  Muddy paws, trying to towel the dog off before he shakes, etc.  It can be frustrating when you live in a place where you have no option other than to walk your dog when it is raining.  Who wants to be out in the rain?

Now not only do we have a wet dog, but we have a wet, unhappy owner. We get stressed, our tone and body language changes. We want our dog to do his business and fast. We rush him. We get flustered. Our dogs pick up on this. Then we wonder why Sparky refuses to potty in the rain.

It has also been hypothesized that since dogs have better hearing that the sound of rain is worse for them.  This would make sense though some dogs love going out in the rain.  So, though I see the validity in this, I would like to see some serious research into it such as breed/physical structure (floppy vs upright ears), owner behavior, etc.  Low cloud cover can amplify sounds.  When the local marine corps base is training with heavy munitions, it is much louder (and shakier) here when it is overcast.

It is also thought that dogs are affected more by barometric pressure changes.  I know when there are changes that friends of mine get more headaches, my body aches more and joint issues flare up.

Though both of these make sense, many dogs have to go outside in order to potty. How do we change this?  I think you know where I am going with this train of thought. We need to make being out in the rain a good thing.

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How can we make being in the rain at least less stressing if not outright fun?  We get out and make it that way.  Now, this is NOT to be used as an excuse to leave your dog out in the rain just because you think he likes it.  All I want to do is try and change the attitude towards going potty outside when it is raining.  Let’s get started.

When it is raining lightly, get outside and play with your pup.  Walk him, feed him high value treats, get silly.  Dampened grass, hoses on mist, lightly running sprinklers, etc., can all be used to help mimic falling water (rain).  Do not spray the dog directly.  Do not force him into the water.  He needs to do it on HIS terms and at HIS speed. Your job is to be fun and reinforce going in the mist or light rain as good. Do not stress or get upset.  These behaviors from us can undo progress.

Now look at what we carry or wear or expect the dog to wear when we are outside in the rain

Going outside then suddenly popping open an umbrella can be scary. Do you wear a flappy rain coat?  Rain coats and booties are not normal things for dogs to wear.  Slowly acclimate your dog to anything they or you may use to stay drier in the rain.  Make them all as positive as possible.

When our dogs are less stressed about being out in the rain, it becomes easier to teach them to potty outside when it is wet.  The more comfortable they become relieving themselves in the rain, the easier it becomes for you.

So, let your inner child out.  Play in the rain and mud.  Make it fun.  Yes, you will end up with a soggy dog and having to wipe paws.  However, would you rather have a dog who willingly goes out in the bad weather to potty or one who fusses about and may refuse to go at all?

• Karen Peak – West Wind Dog Training