Can Dogs Adapt to a New Name?

Why would someone change a dog’s name? Won’t this confuse the dog?  There are various reasons to consider changing a dog’s name.  Think the rescue dog who cowers whenever his name is called.  A dog like this may have a negative association with his name.  The name evokes a fear response.  Some dogs never properly learned their name in their previous home.  My old Seven came from a house that never properly taught her a name.  She had been returned to the breeder when the family lost their farm.  Seen was a working farm dog helping protect livestock.  The parents called her one name, the kids they learned did not like it so were calling her something different. When called, there was no real response.  What if you do not like the name your new dog has?  A woman I trained with took a dog from her son.  He named the young pit bull “Satan”.  Mom said he was not ready to have a dog and removed the dog from his care.  Mom refused to keep the name the son chose.

Seven Ag June 030001

My old Seven – she did not respond well at all to what her family named her so after she came to us, we changed her name.


Before you teach a dog a new name, remember these ground rules. First: do not call the name if you are not in a position to reinforce a response.  If I walk around saying my dog’s name without reinforcing a response, how I can make sure my dog is learning it?  I do not want his name to become ignored background noise. Second: never put a negative association with the name. This means never saying the dog’s name as a precursor to punishment.  How can my dog learn his name is good when I say it and then do something bad? Giving my dog’s name negativity affects our relationship. Now let’s look at the process.

Get a handful of high value treats. Begin in a quiet, low distraction area.  This increases the chance of the dog not getting distracted and increases the chance of a response.  In a pleasant, happy voice, say the new name.  Do not use the treat to get his attention.  Do not wiggle it in front of his nose first.  Keep it hidden. Simply say his name and when he looks, treat.  If he does not look at you, wait a few seconds and try again.  If he still does not look, try getting closer or moving to an area of less distraction. The moment he looks at you after you say his name, reinforce it with a treat. Once he starts reliably responding to his name, increase the distractions a little.  As you increase distractions you must increase the value of the food you are using.

Move around the dog and call. Every time he looks at you, reinforce it. Go to different areas of the house and your community to practice.  This is important as you need your dog to respond to his name in a host of different situations. Along with high value food, use games such as fetch or tug of war to help reinforce the name.  If your dog enjoys being handled, you can do this at times.  Use a host of things to reinforce a response. How often do you need to play the games?

Every interaction I have with any of my pets is a learning experience for them – even if I do not think it is. If my dog has any negative association with his name, it affects my relationship with him.  Therefore I always work on some level to keep the name meaning good things.  When I am in higher distraction situations I will play name games – even with my older dogs. What if you have a new puppy or a different species?  The same concepts apply.

Finally, having a dog who responds reliably and happily to a name lays the foundation for teaching other behaviors.

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Octogrefest and Pool Water

Conversations With My Dogs

It is my favorite time of year.  Also stressing as the pool gets closed.  We opt to have a company do this do if there is a problem with draining a line and it freezes, it is on them.  This was the day we drained the pool.  All I wanted to do was watch a horror movie and chill while waiting for the guys.  Nope… 

IMG_1599Our pumpkins from 2016.

Uhura: Lady, lady, lady, lady….. laaaaaady….

Me: What?

Uhura: We need talks.

Me: What did Foster do now?

Uhura: We need talks. WE NEED TALKS!  TALKS TALKS TALKS!!!!

Me: I heard you, settle down.  What did Foster do now?

Uhura: It be Octogrefests.

Me: You mean Octoberfest?

Uhura: Nopes.  It be falldowns and monsters and happyparties timeys.  Pretty sure Octogrefests.  Be scary time of da year for doggies and chaseycats.  Fings smells goods and punkiny and crunch leaves but…

View original post 1,094 more words

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When Someone Loses a Pet

This was published in a shorter version in Northern Virginia Today – it did not make it to the paper’s website so I am blogging it.  The loss of a beloved pet is never easy.  However, what you do as a friend or relative of someone who has makes a huge difference.  What should you do when someone loses a pet?  Note, though I discuss mainly dogs, the information goes for all animals.



D’Argo, (c) West Wind Dog Training

After the loss of a pet it is not uncommon for people to weigh in with what they think you should do. You may get advice on when to get another pet. You may be grilled on where you should get your pet. You may get “guilt-trip” messages on social media about pets needing homes and you needing a pet.  If you have lost a pet take this to heart.

Only you know what is best for you.  You need to make that choice, no one else.

For those who may do the pushing, please take this to heart.

You may mean well but your actions, may make things worse. 

It is not fair to push someone to “replace” a lost pet when they are not ready. Your social media posts to that person and comments “Look who needs a home” may push the person who suffered the loss into adopting a pet they really are not prepared to have.  People who are grieving may not always think with their heads.  The hole in their heart may speak louder.  Well that may not be a good thing.  What if that critter(s) you keep pushing on them have medical or behavioral concerns that have not shown up or you are not aware of?  It is fair to push an animal on someone who may not be in a position for whatever reason own one?  You mean well and you want that animal to have a home and you know your friend is hurting, but is pushing and posting and “suggesting” the best thing to do?  No.

The timing of when to bring in a new animal is up to the owner suffering the loss, if the person decides to get another pet at all. The reasons not to get another pet will vary. There may be financial concerns.  Some may not want to suffer the emotional toll of another loss.  Pets can be a huge time commitment.  The person may need some freedom.  The choice of timing is personal.  Your job as a friend is to support the choice even if it would not work for you.  What do I mean by this?

What if the person cannot live with the hole in their lives and the next day is searching for another pet?  Just because you think the person did not mourn long enough please do not accuse them of replacing a pet as they would a pair of shoes.  It is not disrespectful to the departed pet.  It is what the person needs.  Hold your opinions about when the person decides to bring in another pet.   I am more concerned that the person is choosing a good match for him/her instead of how fast they are “replacing” the lost pet.  For example, a laid back, not active person recently lost a small, low-key dog and they adopt a larger, high energy dog in their grief. If they know what they are getting and what the dog needs and will be able to sanely own the dog, this is where my concerns are.  Timing is personal.  It is not my decision to make nor my place to judge.  My job is to support them when they decide to bring in a new pet.

What if the person decides not to bring in a new pet?  That is fine!  It is the person’s choice, not yours!  I have spoken to people whose friends were very upset because they made the decision not to bring in a new pet after suffering a loss. Yes they were lonely and missed a companion but the people were making the best decision for them.  They did not like people pushing them to get a new pet. The pressure others put on them to replace the lost pet was draining.  If you are doing this, even if you mean well, stop.  Just stop.  You may pressure someone into getting a pet they really do not want at this time.  Yes, people will give into pressure.  It takes a lot to tell someone to stop.  The person may not want to hurt your feelings or affect your friendship therefore will not tell you to quit it.  However, in talking to people I have learned the pressure is painful and not respectful.

Do not judge the source of the new pet. Do not tell people choosing to adopt that these animals have too much baggage and are not good pets.  Do not tell people choosing to go to a breeder that they are condemning a shelter animal to death.  No matter how you feel about the source of the pet, it is not your decision.  Years ago I used to be very judgemental of where people went for pets.  However, over the years I have mellowed and gotten a different perspective.  This perspective came through years of experience and talking with people about the reasons behind the source of any pet. Though I may not agree with the source, the decision is not mine.  I should be more concerned about the ability of the owner to care for the critter as that is what really matters.  If I am asked my opinion of sources I will give the pros and cons of each.  Even at that the ultimate decision is not mine.

What about surprising the person with a pet? You may mean well by gifting a pet to fill that void, but is it a good idea? What if the timing is not right? What if the owner cannot keep the pet or afford the pet?  What if the animal is not what they want? It may make you feel really warm and fuzzy, but the recipient may not be ready.   It is really fair to the human or the animal to do this?

I had a client couple who lost a pet, their kids were all grown and the last one had moved, the two were recently retired.  Though they missed the pet and the kids, the couple was happy.  In fact they had made plans to travel in an RV all over the US.  The trip was going to last about six months or more. They had NO pressure for anything now.  Without asking, the kids surprised Mom and Dad with a puppy.  The parents were not happy at all.  Here they were having to change months of travel plans.  They could not rent an RV as planned because many do not allow pets, etc.  None of the kids were able to keep the puppy for the duration of the trip.  So here the couple was, with a puppy they did not want and having to give up a trip they had planned for months.  Luckily this worked out and they turned out to be great owners BUT it was FAR from what they wanted.   In other situations the gifted pet was not as lucky.

Lastly, please never say “It was just a pet”, “Not like you lost a relative” or “You can always get another.” Studies have shown the loss of a pet can hit people harder than the loss of a relative.  You may have an idea how important the animal was but you are not that person.  Though you may be trying to ease the pain or think you are putting things in perspective, pet owners who lost pets have told me these are some of the most upsetting comments people make.

What should you do when someone loses a pet? A simple “I’m sorry” may mean a lot.  Take the person out for coffee, dinners, heck even a drink. Be a shoulder to cry on. Give a listening ear. That is often all someone who has lost a pet wants.  In simple terms: be a friend.

Karen Peak is owner of West Wind Dog Training in Northern Virginia and developer of the Safe Kids/Safe Dogs Project.

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Safer Use of Extending Leads

In the past I have covered the risks of extending (also called retracting) leashes which allow dogs to get up to twenty-five feet or more from the owner depending on the brand. Most people know I do not like these leashes.  However, I realize people will use them no matter what is taught by trainers about the risks.  Even knowing the risks, should you decide to use one let’s look at ways to reduce the risk these leads pose.


First consider the leash:

  • Buy the size up from what is recommended for your dog.
  • Get a well known brand from a reputable dealer.
  • Look ones where the entire lead is the same material.  These are sometimes called tape leads.
  • Pull the lead out and make sure it is attached to the spool inside.
  • ­­­Make sure the buttons work.  These units will break down so inspect regularly for wear and tear.
  • Buying discount brands and used retracting leads is not advised.

Now look at your dog:

  • Your dog should have great leash manners on a flat buckle collar or a back attaching body harness as well as a high tolerance to things around him.
  • If your dog pulls hard on leashes, chases passing things, does not come when called, etc., do not use an extending leash. A dog chasing something can get to the end of the lead before you can respond.
  • It is not uncommon for locking mechanisms to fail at some point.  This will allow a dog to get into a road, target another dog or human, trip someone, etc.
  • The sound of the unit hitting the ground if pulled from your hand can cause a dog to panic and run.
  • Your dog needs to have a solid recall even under high distractions.  These leads do not retract and pull your dog in as many people assume.  Your dog gets closer to you only because he wants to when on these leads.

There are specific areas where these leashes should not be used or where you can consider their use:

The risks of bad things increases when extending leashes are used in densely populated or closed in areas.

  • Avoid using them in stores, busy parks, near roads, on bike and hiking trails, veterinary/groomer waiting areas, etc.  I have watched dogs end up in traffic as they tried to chase something across the street.
  • Cyclists on trails have been flipped and dogs hurt as bikes hit leads stretched across trails.
  • I watched two dogs walking towards each other on extending leads become tangled and fight as they panicked.
  • I have seen severe injuries as the leads get pulled across skin.
  • Check park regulations (national and state), many have policies restricting the length of leashes.

When you walk your dog, use a short lead to get to where you are going. Put the extending lead on and remove your short lead.  Be aware of your surroundings.  If you see people or other animals, call your dog close and put on the short lead.  When you return home or to your vehicle, put your dog on the short lead for the return walk.

I know that people will keep using these leads.  Even clients of mine will use extending leads even when I advise against them.  Though I am not a fan of them and do not use them with my dogs, I am also a realist.  I want to reduce the risk these leads pose.  You as dog owners determine the safety of these leads.  If you use an extending lead, please do so only with a well-trained dog in open, quiet areas.  They are not suited for general use.

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If You Think Training is Expensive – Check the Alternatives

I have consulted with owners who were facing problems because a dog was put in a position where something happened.  Some incidents involved the dog going after someone.  Some cases involved a bite.  Other cases involved damage dogs did to rental property when owners were not home.   In each situation the owner was told by a landlord, home owners association, animal control/law enforcement, etc., to find a trainer.  In some cases once contracts were discussed the next words were “Oh that will cost too much” or “Let me discuss the costs with my spouse and I will call back.”


It is best to work to prevent problems. This means choosing a dog that is the best match for your life and choosing the best source possible. From here you start early socializing and work. Find a good trainer to help get you started on the road to prevention.  No matter how much work we do, these are still dogs.  Sometimes things happen which are best addressed with a professional.   Now come the monetary concerns.  Yes you will have to pay for a trainer.  Yes we love dogs but we also have expenses we must cover.  We have bills just like you.

Before you say you cannot afford professional to help address problems, ask yourself the following questions:

  • Can I afford to pay increased premiums for my homeowner’s insurance?
  • Can I afford to lose my homeowner’s insurance?
  • Can I afford to cover all bills for injury my dog inflicts?
  • Can I afford to be evicted by my landlord?
  • Can I afford to be sued?
  • Am I willing to risk losing my dog if something else happens?
  • Are there places I can cut back to afford help?

Let me give you a couple examples. I consulted with a man who allowed his dog in a position to easily escape the property and attack a pedestrian’s leashed dog.   The county decided to label the dog dangerous due only to how he was being managed. All the owner was told to do by his county was adequately fence the yard and show he was working with a trainer.  As soon as this was done they would lift the designation.  He said it was too expensive to do either so he hired a lawyer to fight his county’s decision.    The owner ended up spending almost three times in lawyer fees and court costs than he would have if he fenced the yard and worked with a trainer.  The owner called me several years later and complained about the lawyer costs and how he should have fenced the yard in the first place.

Some owners take a “wait and see” approach due to the cost of a trainer. Waiting to see if the issue is grown out of can increase your cost and work.  One owner let problems go for 8 years due to cost.  Over those 8 years the dog caused thousands of dollars in damages to various properties.  What prompted the owner to seek a trainer was the dog doing $10,000 in damage in one day to the owner’s new apartment.  This was on top of thousands of dollars in damage to various homes during this time.  The owner said training was too costly.

Sometimes the cost is a case of prioritizing how funds are allocated in life.  I got a call from a woman needing help with vet bills.  Her puppy was in a serious accident and needed surgery. She thought animal lovers would help pay for the puppy.  Then she started talking about how she really needed to replace her Lexus because it was older and she wanted to buy a larger house (she lived in a very affluent area) because she felt her current home did not suit her.  Also she was taking a European trip and wanted to pay in cash so she could not use the money for the puppy and…  All this would mean no extra money to fix her puppy.  I confirmed the story with her veterinarian.  Priorities.  Yes this is for vet bills but I have had people tell me dog training is too expensive and in the next breath discuss going shopping at boutiques where I know one dress often costs more than a series of group classes at a local facility.

Sometimes money truly is an issue.  Owners lose jobs or are facing costly medical bills, etc.  I have worked with people on seriously fixed incomes who were honestly having to choose sometimes between grocery shopping and vet bills.  If money is truly tight, discuss management options with a good trainer. I would rather an owner learn to manage a situation than do nothing at all.  Some owners decide to opt for a lifetime of management while others eventually move on to training.  Management is a big part of any program but the dog should have some additional work for the best chance of good results.

When you get a dog, training is an expense you must consider.  When you look at the big picture, a dog trainer may be cheaper than the alternatives.

Karen Peak owns West Wind Dog Training and The Safe Kids/Safe Dogs Project in Prince William County, VA.

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He Was Not Having Fun

It was tough. At home mom with a military contracted spouse who travelled a lot.  Three younger children and a puppy.  Mom wanted the puppy to help teach the kids responsibility and such.  However, Mom also described her children as spirited and fun-loving.  She encouraged them to express themselves creatively.  The problem was the children were allowed to have fun and express themselves creatively in ways the puppy did not find fun.

The client was out of my travel range but I took the family on as a favor to a friend who was an animal professional.  She knew I did child/dog safety work.

When I entered the house I saw the puppy’s crate (large crate for a puppy that would grow to be a large dog) decked out and made into a play platform.  A child was sitting on the crate singing and kicking.   Another child was running around the puppy while the critter was trying to eat.  When the puppy nipped another child would run up and yell NONONO!  Then the children proceeded to host a show – on top of the “crate stage.”  Then a child tried to get the puppy involved in the play.  This all went down while I was trying to take a history.

Mom was upset because the children only wanted to have fun with the puppy.  The puppy was described as a nasty brat.

The puppy was trying to survive.  The children were allowed to play inappropriately with him because Mom assumed a dog should learn to tolerate anything a child does.  If a child wants to have fun, the dog should accept it.

Here is the flaw with that – what the child thinks is fun the dog may find threatening.  It does not matter what the child’s intentions or parental assumption is if the dog is not having fun.  Humans do not determine what is fun for the dog – that is personal to the dog.

This pup was not having fun. The kids wanted to play but the pup needed security and respect.  Just because you and your child thinks the crate is a great play area and a stage does not mean the puppy will feel the same.  No, crates are supposed to be a safe place.  Puppies and dogs should be able to eat and chew toys in peace.  When I pointed out all the stress signals the pup was giving preceding a nip, Mom was shocked.  However, she was still loathe to teach her children different ways to play because they were spirited and she did not want to break that.

Over the weeks, I tried to show her how the kids and pup could have fun.  I encouraged and outlined safer games.  I tried to make the pup’s crate a quiet zone where he could retreat and be given breaks from the kids.  We worked on self-control exercises for the puppy and kids.  We rearranged things so the puppy and children could have fun together in a more appropriate way.

Here came the issues though – Mom felt the kids should dictate what they did for fun and not the pup.  She was not going to intervene and stop them because that would squash their creativity.  So I brought my daughter to show her how well children and pups could do with boundaries – boundaries are needed for safety.  My daughter was younger than her children.  We all went for a nice walk, we showed how much fun they could still have with set safety boundaries.  Mom’s only comment was “Well I am not a dog trainer and my children need to express themselves. My kids must have fun.”

The puppy was having fun with my child, she was properly guided and given boundaries.  The puppy was encouraged to take breaks and given needed breaks.  This was nothing the mother could not do if she wanted.




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Be Our Guest – Hotel Etiquette with Dogs

The more I travel with dogs, the more I see an increasing number of hotels and motels are becoming less pet friendly. Some complaints I hear from dog owners include hotels they used to love no longer allowing pets and hotels seriously increasing pet fees.  When I talk to hotel managers, it is easy to see why there are problems with allowing dogs and why they charge what they do.  As dog owners, we are to blame for higher fees and bans.  How we act at hotels will play a big role in how hotel management views how they handle allowing pets.


2009 – Sarah and Ravyn bedding down for the night while at the ASSA National in Perry, GA.  – picture by Karen Peak

In order to have good canine guests at hotels, we start with training and socializing. Some behaviors I want include: ignoring various sounds in the hall, relaxation when inside (yes this can be taught), good leash manners, sitting or waiting at doors, not lunging at people, etc.  My dogs need to quietly ride elevators or walk nicely up stairs.  They need to pass other guests, housekeeping carts and room service trays left in the hall.  They will need to handle the numerous sounds at a hotel without barking at every little noise.  We have stayed at hotels near airports and less than 100 yards from commuter rail tracks. What seems like an easy thing for us can be overwhelming for our dogs.  Now, we cannot stay at hotels to work on training and socializing but getting our dogs out and teaching what we need will go a long way.  Teach them to be in small areas with you to help prepare for riding elevators.  Some places like Bass Pro Shops are dog friendly and have elevators.  We would go there often for socializing and elevator work.  There is a lot we can do at home to prepare our dogs for hotel stays.

I make it a point to talk to managers when I stay at hotels. The complaints management have about what dog owners do (or not) and permit are lengthy.  Here are a few. Not cleaning up poop from hotel and surrounding grounds is a major problem. This includes poop on walkways, in dog walk areas, in the landscaping, etc. It is disgusting how many owners do not clean up after their dogs.  This is not only unsightly but a health issue.  Many things we do not want can be transmitted through dog poop.  Always have a poop bag on hand.  If you forget one,  the bags used to line ice buckets work great as do the bags in your room’s trash cans.  If the hotel has a poop bag station and it is empty, let management know so they can replace the bags.

Out of control dogs who are not managed in rooms is another concern.  One hotel manager told me about a severely damaged guest room. The damage done included chewed holes in walls, destroyed a handicapped shower bench, relieved himself over the carpets, etc.  The damage was done in one night (owner was with the dog).  The owner completely ignored what the dog was doing.  The damage cost close to $10,000 and a room for disabled guests had to be taken out of service for a week for repairs.  Luckily the manager decided not to ban all dogs.

Another manager said dogs who are allowed to bark all day and night is a major complaint of guests.  Some guests treat hotels and boarding kennels – leave the dog all day alone in the room.  The dogs bark and disturb people.  When the manager calls owners to return to the room, many cannot be reached.  Yes sometimes we will have to leave dogs in the rooms while we run to get breakfast in the lobby (please bring it to your room) but leaving for a 6 – 12 hour day to see the sights or heading out to dinner and leaving your dog in the room is irresponsible.  I have sat and listened to dogs barking for several hours while owners left the building.

Another complaint came from a manager at a hotel where people were staying for dog shows.  I was not at this show but knew club members who were contacted by the hotel management after. One group left the rooms they booked a disaster as they decided to do a full show grooming on their dogs and not clean up after they were done. They were all friends and all the same breed.  These exhibitors were banned from all shows hosted by this club.  Luckily the club did a lot of damage control to keep good relations with the hotel!  I have been at shows where announcements were made letting exhibitors know just what will happen if they are irresponsible at the host hotels.

Crates are also important for the safety of your dog. All it takes is one housekeeper or maintenance man to open the door for your dog to escape.  I never rely on “do not disturb” or “dog in room” signs to keep people out.  All it takes is the owner not to be in the room and a housekeeper or maintenance person to enter and the dog to sneak out.  We often stay at hotels with kitchenettes so we have the option of cooking meals.  It is not uncommon for there to be various cleaning agents left in lower cabinets. I have dogs who can open cabinets.  A dog who is comfortable and likes a crate is safer in hotel rooms.

Along the same idea is make sure your dogs do not dash out open doors.  It is frightening to be coming down the hall, see a door open and watch a dog come barreling out with an owner screaming for the dog to get back.  If your dog cannot maintain a wait while a door is opened, crate him or leash him before opening the door. One hotel trip we had this happen (the dog was on an extending leash, dashed out of the door and pulled down the hall, the owner made no move to stop him).  We were close enough for him to get at our dogs.  Luckily I was able to get them into the door as the owner began to realize there was going to be a problem.

Do not walk your dogs on extending or long leads in the building or on the grounds. Short leashes are safer.  One recent trip (May 2017) we had to wait ten minutes before an owner acknowledged her dog (not a nice one either) was blocking the lobby doors.   His lead was extended across the entire doorway. He was roaming around while his owner stood and smoked, texted, etc.)  People could neither enter nor exit.  The owner saw people waiting.  She chose to be rude. Extending leads have no place in a hotel or on their grounds.  Because of the body language I saw in the dog I was not going to attempt to pass him.

When in hotels we have to address physical activity. Be considerate when you play with your dogs in your rooms.  The noise may disturb others.  I have heard dog games sound like they were playing fetch in rooms near us – really loud, raucous games.  Not fun when you are trying to sleep.  To help burn off energy (if the dogs are not tired from an event) we will find a back staircase and jog up and walk down a few flights. Stairs are great ways to work out your if you are careful and your dog physically healthy. Walk your dog around the halls if they are well-mannered.  Start at the bottom floor and work up to the top.  We use stair cases at the ends of the halls.  If the area around the hotel is nice we will do laps outside.  We may look for areas we can explore.  If there is an open field then we can use a long line in a safer manner if no one is around.  Alternatively we tell the dog to go sniff and we follow the dog around as she does dog things.  Last summer we drove into Colonial Williamsburg after a dog show and walked around.   The dogs enjoyed sniffing around and checking things out. We have walked the dogs in New York City when at Westminster and around hotel grounds when at Premier.  Scatter feeding your dog will help too and is a quiet game.  Take his kibble and scatter it around the room.  He has to be active to find his food.  Then give him a Kong or similar toy stuffed with food in his crate (to help keep the floors clean) for quieter activities.

As dog owners, we determine how pet-friendly places will remain. Being able to be at a hotel with pets is a privilege I want to continue to enjoy.  Sadly too many people are irresponsible and are making it increasingly difficult for hotel staff to stay dog friendly.

Lastly, please do not lie and state your pet is a service dog so you can gain access with him to a hotel that has a no-dog policy.  This is a growing problem.  If your dog is a pet he is a pet.  If you choose to fake a service dog and certain behaviors happen, the management can have the dog removed and the law will be on his side. If you are in a hotel and you see someone with a service dog, keep your dog well away and under control.  It is not fair to working dogs to be tormented by your pet.  Move down the hall and let the handler and dog get to their room before you proceed.  Give them respect and a wide berth so they can do their work.

This is a greatly extended version of a piece submitted to Northern Virginia Today’s print edition for publication shortly.  – Karen Peak, West Wind Dog Training.

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